The Right: Australia’s Most Dangerous Surf Break
Australia is known for its beautiful beaches and world-class surf breaks. However, there is one surf break that stands out from the rest, The Right. Located off Western Australia’s south coast, The Right is a massive Southern Ocean swell that has sparked into life a huge surf break. It has drawn daredevil surfers and photographers from across the country in recent weeks as a swell up to 8 meters high pounded the coast. In this article, we will explore The Right, its history, and why it is considered one of the most dangerous surf breaks in the world.
The History of The Right
The Right is found between Walpole and Albany and has been known by locals for decades. However, it was not until the early 2000s that it gained international attention. In 2007, a group of surfers from Western Australia released a video called “The Right” that showcased the massive waves and the surfers who dared to ride them. The video went viral, and The Right became a household name in the surfing community.
The Right is not for the faint-hearted. The slab wave has previously left surfers in hospital. Among the surfers who have been towed into the wave’s path by jetski is Dunsborough’s Ollie Henry. “It’s super raw ocean, when you’re actually out there looking at it you kind of realise how insane and how heavy it is,” he said. “You feel like you’re sort of at the mercy of Mother Nature.”
Giant swells boiled up from enormous low pressure systems deep in the Southern Ocean fuel the wave. Geraldton surfer Jake Osman says the wave is “pretty brutal.” “It’s kind of like a little mountain coming in on the swell line, and you’re standing there staring at it, just waiting for the thing to suck out and break,” he said. “It has a reputation for being one of the heaviest waves in the world.”
Surfers Risk Life and Limb
Surfing The Right is not for the faint-hearted. Surfers risk life and limb every time they paddle out. Osman nearly drowned during a previous trip. “A mate managed to grab me at the last minute, grabbed my head and pulled it up, and then I came to and had blood coming out my nose and ears,” he said.
Henry said blown ear drums were common, with some surfers suffering broken bones. “Broken legs, broken backs … it can be pretty brutal if you get it wrong,” he said. “I always look at the wave like I’m going to make it. I don’t really think about falling off because I don’t want to second-guess myself. It breaks in really shallow water, but as soon as it breaks, it goes to really deep water, so a lot of people get pushed down really deep.”
Why is The Right So Dangerous?
The Right is considered one of the most dangerous surf breaks in the world for several reasons. Firstly, it is a slab wave, which means it breaks over a shallow reef, creating a steep and powerful wave that can be difficult to ride. Secondly, it is located in an isolated area with no lifeguards or medical facilities nearby. If a surfer gets into trouble, they are on their own. Finally, the wave is unpredictable and can change quickly, catching surfers off guard.
The Right is a massive Southern Ocean swell that has sparked into life a huge surf break off Western Australia’s south coast. It has drawn daredevil surfers and photographers from across the country in recent weeks as a swell up to 8 meters high pounded the coast. However, it is not for the faint-hearted. The slab wave has previously left surfers in hospital. Surfers risk life and limb every time they paddle out. The Right is considered one of the most dangerous surf breaks in the world for several reasons, including its location, unpredictability, and steep and powerful waves. If you are a surfer looking for a challenge, The Right may be the wave for you. However, if you are not an experienced surfer, it is best to stay on the shore and watch the action from a safe distance.